Cruising Dalmatia
Dubrovnik to Split and back again. Finally family join us!
Leaving Dubrovik, the old port behind.
After a cannonball run to Croatia to make it in time for Jell and Brendan's arrival, it was great to slow down and enjoy the time with them. They brought 2 of Jell's friends Lil and Georgia for the cruise through the Elafiti islands and further north to Split. We had a ball, saw some pretty spots, and met some terrific folk whilst indulging in some fine Croatian wine.
From Dubrovnik, we headed north again to Mljet stopping at Tajnik with lines ashore at a very pretty and secluded spot in time for a dowsing from one of the frequent thunderstorms. The water temperature had certainly dropped said Sandy, tasked with Brendan to swim lines ashore to fix to rocks and trees.
From there a short distance away we stopped at Polace where we farewelled the girls all too soon. We moored ashore at Calypsos where we met Jonathan and Carol Rarity, a Scottish couple who are a lot of fun with heaps of experience in Croatian waters. Lots of fine wine, Scotch, meals, and equally fine music were to follow with them over the next couple of weeks in a variety of places!
From there we headed to the island of Korcula stopping at the protected harbour at Lumbarda indulging in the fine food and wine of Korcula town. The local Lumbarda winery was OK, however the Massimo bar in the tower and especially Cupido restaurant on the promenade were superb.
A day sail on we headed to Hvar famous for its partying but known prior to Kon Tiki tours as a picturesque town with a large fort dominating the heights. We were in a marina run by the dominant marina company in Croatia called Palmizana. All I can say is that whilst picturesque marina, a ruder and more deceptive group of people running it there you won’t meet in Croatia at this very expensive and overrated marina.
I can vouch for the quality of the Negronis at the Hula Hula bar in Hvar albeit the generous slyvovitz shots to finish provided by the friendly bar manager made for my very wobbly boots and little memory of the restaurant and the water taxi home.
Sadly a couple of days later and in what seemed only a short stay we had a night with Brendan and Jella before they left us in Split to head to France. We had a couple more days at Split West anchorage after a visit to Kastella marina for some diver work on a bottom clean and anode replacement. In the bay a series of thunderstorms provided some “ entertainment” but even more so were the Opti and Laser sailors from Ukraine. They were out long after the Croatian sailors went home and in all sorts of weather. They enjoyed our cheering them on although using Cooinda as a turning mark shaving the bow was perhaps less enthusiastically embraced.We perhaps were expecting more from Split, and whilst it had its charms we were happy to move on.
We cruised down the island of Brac which was for us the most scenic part of Croatia when viewed from the water. The little town of Sumartin was a find.
The bay and town of Loviste after passing Makaraska was another terrific find we wish we had known about earlier. The coastline of the mainland south from Makaraska is some of the most breathtaking from the water.
A fitting way to finish in Croatia was to catch up with Jonathon and Carol again back at Orkulje then Korbas near Ston at Nikkos.
We had expected much worse weather but were blessed with some great days albeit with little wind. When we had the wind, the topography brought its challenges with a steady 12 knots in open water becoming 28 out of nowhere to disappearing again moments later and not reappearing. We had been warned and were prepared but surprised nevertheless.
The police in Croatia are notorious for finding ways to fine you and having run the gamut were able to clear out of Hrvatska fineless from the southern coastal town of Cavtat. The final sunset in the bay just north of Cavtat was a spectacular finale for our Croatian interlude.
On to Montenegro!
